For travelers experiencing countries like Bolivia for the first time, there is the standard culture shock that comes with seeing exotic peoples and nature, and the struggles of getting where you need to go and communicating with locals.
There is also the additional shock of dealing with a culture that operates on a different sense of time.
Because Bolivians are not in a rush. They have nothing to rush to, and nothing to worry about.
In the last few months in both Peru and Bolivia, I often found myself stuck walking behind slow locals. When I say slow, I mean it seems they're not going anywhere soon. When this happens I find myself becoming annoyed, but also envious at the patience they have, that which I lack.
Not being in a rush, Bolivians are also quite informal about things - they're not really into making plans and solid commitments. Unfortunately, this cultural difference can razzle tourists who have certain expectations and timelines, when dealing with locals.
For example, my friend and I booked a jungle tour in Rurrenabaque, Bolivia. The tour picked us up late that morning to take us to their office, then took forever to prepare the gear to get going. Once we arrived in the jungle, we were served lunch at the camp, then we relaxed for a bit - well, the Bolivian guides and staff were relaxed and joking around, while we were ready to get going. When we finally got going, we arrived to our final camping spot quite late, and didn't have time to squeeze in other scheduled activities.
We were quite ticked off (not only due to the fact we got sick from the lunch) because the staff were taking their time every step of the way. This happened in a few other tours as well.
In the last few months in both Peru and Bolivia, I often found myself stuck walking behind slow locals. When I say slow, I mean it seems they're not going anywhere soon. When this happens I find myself becoming annoyed, but also envious at the patience they have, that which I lack.
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| I encountered this lovely local along her walk home |
For example, my friend and I booked a jungle tour in Rurrenabaque, Bolivia. The tour picked us up late that morning to take us to their office, then took forever to prepare the gear to get going. Once we arrived in the jungle, we were served lunch at the camp, then we relaxed for a bit - well, the Bolivian guides and staff were relaxed and joking around, while we were ready to get going. When we finally got going, we arrived to our final camping spot quite late, and didn't have time to squeeze in other scheduled activities.
We were quite ticked off (not only due to the fact we got sick from the lunch) because the staff were taking their time every step of the way. This happened in a few other tours as well.
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| Our very friendly homestay host on Lake Titicaca |
Bolivia is not the only country where informality happens - there is a general divide between countries with strong economies, and those without. And between countries in cold climates, and those in hot. This of course is a general observation, and I'm sure there are exceptions.
Why is this the case? Because strong economies both thrive on and demand efficiency and certainty.
For example, in Canada, businesses rely on efficiency and certainty to keep their shelves stocked and maximize profits. With the economy as a base priority, we've developed into a society where we pay good money in exchange for a strong expectation of results and timeliness.
For example, in Canada, businesses rely on efficiency and certainty to keep their shelves stocked and maximize profits. With the economy as a base priority, we've developed into a society where we pay good money in exchange for a strong expectation of results and timeliness.
In Bolivia, people pay less money for the same things, and manage their expectations accordingly. As I elaborated in my previous blog, Bolivian local buses operate much more informally than in Canada. There is no set bus schedule - and there are no set stops - you can literally get on and off wherever you want.
As long as there is a bus, of course.
Micro-buses connecting regional villages don't even leave the station until they have enough passengers to fill the vehicle. Hanga and I once had to go from Sucre to a small village to start a 2-day trek. There was no set departure time for this bus, so we just showed up to the station, a dusty outdoor lot, early in the morning. We had to wait nearly 2 hours for the bus to fill up before we could leave.
While we became impatient due to the lack of certainty (this would never happen in my country!), the local Bolivians waited patiently on the bus while it sat in the dusty lot. After all, they made no other plans that day... except to get there.
In Bolivia, being a small business owner is the norm, not the exception. Bolivia's outdoor markets are amazing, lively places - aisle after aisle, lined up with individuals operating out of closet sized nooks.
When it comes to retail hours, there are none. Shop owners come and go as they please - and they are often not there. Better yet, they are often asleep in their shops. They also set their own prices, and they are flexible and negotiable. In other words, they live their life not by their business, but as they please.
As long as there is a bus, of course.
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| Local bus in Sucre, Bolivia |
Micro-buses connecting regional villages don't even leave the station until they have enough passengers to fill the vehicle. Hanga and I once had to go from Sucre to a small village to start a 2-day trek. There was no set departure time for this bus, so we just showed up to the station, a dusty outdoor lot, early in the morning. We had to wait nearly 2 hours for the bus to fill up before we could leave.
While we became impatient due to the lack of certainty (this would never happen in my country!), the local Bolivians waited patiently on the bus while it sat in the dusty lot. After all, they made no other plans that day... except to get there.
In Bolivia, being a small business owner is the norm, not the exception. Bolivia's outdoor markets are amazing, lively places - aisle after aisle, lined up with individuals operating out of closet sized nooks.
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| One of the largest open air markets in the world - Cochabamba, Bolivia |
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| Local handicrafts on sale at the central market in Urubamba, Peru |
When it comes to retail hours, there are none. Shop owners come and go as they please - and they are often not there. Better yet, they are often asleep in their shops. They also set their own prices, and they are flexible and negotiable. In other words, they live their life not by their business, but as they please.
I am envious at times of the way things work in Bolivia. While the informality of things can be infuriating, it forced me to slow down, make less plans, and enjoy the moment and talk to the people around me.
And while the efficiency and certainty of my home country can be comforting, its byproduct is inflexibility and monotony. It demands infinite productivity and more emphasis on money; less on time, relationships and spontaneity.
I think this is what drives travelers to countries like Bolivia - not just the fact that it's cheap to travel, but the organized chaos that prevails breaks down our own paradigms about how a society is supposed to operate. In other words, travelers seek respite from the rigidity of their own societies, to soak in the organized chaos, fun and spontaneity of more informal cultures.
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| Yta, my charming and friendly hostel "mother" in Cusco, Peru |
And while the efficiency and certainty of my home country can be comforting, its byproduct is inflexibility and monotony. It demands infinite productivity and more emphasis on money; less on time, relationships and spontaneity.
I think this is what drives travelers to countries like Bolivia - not just the fact that it's cheap to travel, but the organized chaos that prevails breaks down our own paradigms about how a society is supposed to operate. In other words, travelers seek respite from the rigidity of their own societies, to soak in the organized chaos, fun and spontaneity of more informal cultures.
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| A beautiful group of "locals" adapted to the slow life in Ollantaytambo, Peru |
Because of these observations I hesitate to label countries as first world vs. third; or developed vs. developing, because these are based solely on measures of material and financial wealth. The so called developing nations are actually very rich in time and people wealth, something immeasurable and that correlates better to the ultimate measure - happiness.
Over the past 2 months, it seems to me that, while missing certain modern comforts and conveniences of an efficient society, Bolivians and Peruvians are truly happy people.
Tourists will just have to deal with the informality that comes with it.
Over the past 2 months, it seems to me that, while missing certain modern comforts and conveniences of an efficient society, Bolivians and Peruvians are truly happy people.
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| Met this nice family among beautiful old ruins - Pisac, Peru |
Tourists will just have to deal with the informality that comes with it.
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