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Friday, 18 October 2013

On the Road Again, Part 2 - West Is Best

After a week of hiking all around the amazing red landscape of Utah, it was time to change gears. The west coast sprinkled a little bit of moisture on my dry face and added some colour to my red palette. I gave myself up to vulnerability and spontaneity, trademarks of my holistic approach when I was backpacking through Europe.
Words of wisdom - bench, Eugene, OR
After a 10 hour drive, blistering through the Nevada desert at the legal speed limit of 80 mph (128 km/hr), I arrived just outside of San Francisco. I was welcomed in Oakland by my friend, Courtney, who I met in Berlin in March, and with a hearty home cooked meal.

For the subsequent few nights in the Bay Area I found, through Couchsurfing, a six-person commune in which lived a nudist, and at the time hosted five Couchsurfers. Interesting place, to say the least.
Gogol Bordello at the Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Festival, Golden Gate Park, San Francisco
Golden State Warriors NBA preseason game, Oakland
All too soon, it was time to leave San Fran, and so I wound my way up the scenic Pacific Coast of California. Car sleeping on a highway turnout by the ocean, I let the waves lull me to sleep.
Glass Beach, Fort Bragg - glass beads made from landfill bottles worn down by the ocean 
The following morning, finally, I arrived in the state of Oregon, which I had been yearning to visit since an unlikely encounter with a very interesting person from here, who I met while traveling through Italy last October. In maybe the hippiest city in North America, Eugene, I had an unforgettable time, fitting in snugly with the strong culture of bike lovers, vegans, backyard farmers, and craft beer swiggers.
Gate at a collective house made from old bicycle parts
Upon leaving Eugene, I shot back towards the Pacific coast to awe at the mighty yet steadying presence of ocean waves crashing into jagged rocks, towering cliffs, and beige beaches.
Seal Rock Beach, Newport, Oregon
And then there was Portland. What I really came to the west coast to see: Portland is a larger and more well known version of sleepy Eugene; it is the self-proclaimed bicycle capital of North America, rejecting highway building since the 80's; its slogan is "Keep Portland Weird" and it is home of the unsurprisingly weird show Portlandia, which is a pretty good indication of what it's like to live there.
Portland Farmer's Market - high standards and integrity market offering great local food 
Portland has been in my dreams since the idea of it first planted itself in my brain and it was exciting to finally be there in person. Not only that, but I arrived on the weekend where the city comes alive, and found the perfect Couchsurfing host, Ben, who took me on a day trip along the Columbia River gorge with its myriad waterfalls.
Multnomah Falls, Oregon
I left Oregon with such a favourable impression that I think I will live here someday. It is the true epitomy of the cultural and natural mosaic of the west coast.

After a quick stop in Seattle's Georgetown neighbourhood, I rounded out my trip by spending 4 days in Vancouver, visiting my best friend, Henry, before he departs on his sabbatical of self-discovery in India. As per usual, our conversations were what bonded us; we continue to philosophically challenge each other with our differing perspectives in life.

Going for a run in Stanley Park, Vancouver
Over the course of 3 weeks, my faithful Toyota Yaris took me 6,500 km around the western United States and back on just $420 of gas. But I also gained kilometres of experience and wisdom.

This trip reaffirmed my desire for the purest form of travel - staying in hostels or with Couchsurfers to get the local perspective, and walking or biking around a city to get a feel for its character. While nature stunned me and culture impressed me, what defined the trip were the inspiring people I met and the amazing conversations I had.
While driving is nice, it's always nicer getting around a new city by bike!
Especially bike friendly cities like San Francisco, Eugene, Portland and Vancouver.
The one big difference in this trip with my Europe travels was that I drove the whole time. While having that freedom was really nice, there is something about taking buses and trains that I missed. Something about having that large expanse of time to fill how you like - by watching the landscape roll by, reading, or writing in a journal. Oh, and also not having to deal with traffic in big cities!

My recent experience has also helped to redraw the North American borders in my mind. Sorry Toronto: in North America, west is best.
Mt Hood reminds Portland of how powerful and timeless nature is
Because while oceans calm us, mountains alter us - they ground us, humble us, make us forget about life's insignificant problems and remember how simple and happy it can be; they can make us bow down with respect and love for nature in all its beauty.

Flickr link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/11monthsandrew/sets/72157636708306985/

Wednesday, 16 October 2013

On The Road Again, Part 1 - 127 Hours in Utah

With 10 months of backpacking still freshly imprinted on my memory, my vacation meter seemed filled up, if not still bubbling over the top. I was perfectly content to continue reestablishing roots in Calgary.

This doesn't explain why I suddenly embarked on a 3 week road trip, looping down the western United States and up to Vancouver, my current location. The explanation is not in the brain but in the heart: my heart is fueled by adrenaline, beats to the rhythm of new footsteps, pumps with spontaneity and fills the arteries with a vigor for life and new experiences.
Quick pit stop in Butte, Montana - discovered she's a beaut 
A few opportunities came together, and so on the last Friday of September I found myself driving out of town, south for the border. Past the prairies of Alberta and Montana I sped, eventually into darkness. After car sleeping, I woke up to pretty rolling hills smiling down at me, renewing my vigor. I drove on through Montana's better half, past Idaho's lava rocks, and braved Salt Lake City's rush hour traffic.
Three and a half men - in a condo in Moab, Utah
Finally, after 18 hours on the long road, I arrived in Moab, Utah, joining three guys each around 60 years old, already asleep in our rented townhouse, preparing for the upcoming physically demanding week.

Utah is simply one of the most beautiful places in the world. Its rock formations are like nothing I have ever seen. The morning after our first sleep we tackled the Negro Bill Trail which took us to the Morning Glory Natural Bridge, then later on hiked up another trail to see the Corona Arch.
Morning Glory Natural Bridge - tough to see, but it actually
stands on its own, separate from the large wall behind it
Corona Arch - tallest of all the arches in Utah
On Day 2 we checked out one of the slot canyons, made famous by the movie 127 Hours, Wild Horse Canyon. Later on, we dropped in on the goblins (though more mushroom-like in my opinion) of Goblin Valley State Park.
In the slot canyon, wading through knee high muddy water
Goblin Valley State Park
On Day 3 we decided to tackle Mt. Peale, the second highest summit in Utah, nearly 13,000 ft, offering us an escape from the low heat into chilling alpine winds and breathtaking views of fall colours and vast expanses of desert red rock in the distance.
12,700 ft above sea level, it's a long way down from Mt. Peale
On Day 4 we awoke to an impotent US government and locked gates at our most anticipated attractions - Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. Undeterred, we found a wonderful alternative - one of the most impressive and imposing rock formations I'd ever seen, Fisher Towers.
Fisher Towers - jutting slivers of rock that are truly unbelievable
Looking straight up, we saw rock climbers taking on one of the many steep tower's faces
On Day 5 we went to Dead Horse Point State Park, with views down to the valley floor, breathtaking, and into the distance, endless.
The view of the famous bend in the Colorado River, and a big pointy rock
It's a good day to be alive
Moab is the self proclaimed mountain biking mecca of the world. After 5 days of amazing hiking, I decided to take on the famous Slickrock Trail.
Taking a break from a grueling 3.5 hour teeth-grinding mountain biking trail
Some mountain biking enthusiasts rumbling down the steep hills of Slickrock
Despite the national parks being closed as a result of the greatest blunder of democracy, and being stuck in a house with 3 old guys, I was still able to experience some breathtaking places unrestricted by quasi-martial law. Over 6 days, I hiked around 60 km, gained nearly 2 km of elevation and got my tail kicked mountain biking. I left Moab drained but feeling fantastic.

And on the drive out of Utah, I managed to dip my feet into the Great Salt Lake, then take my car off the highway onto the salt flats, which stretch into the jagged horizon.
Just off the interstate, salt flats seem to go on forever and ever. And ever
The west coast is up next, and it's time to trade in the comforts of a townhouse for my old school ways of hostels and Couchsurfing. The road will take me from the dry heat of magnificent red rocky deserts into wet and wondrous blue coastlines, snow capped grand vistas of volcanoes and vibrant cities teeming with down-to-earth people in the hip west.

Stay tuned for Part 2.

The rest of my Utah photos can be seen here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11monthsandrew/sets/72157636637070714/

Monday, 16 September 2013

A Beautiful, If Brief, Calgary Summer

Maybe it was my slow reintegration into society. Or the lingering effects of the devastating flood. Probably a little bit of both. Since my return, it seemed to take forever for the real Calgary to show up. But, finally, Mother Nature gave Calgary the summer it deserved - a sublime forecast of 25 degrees and sunny virtually every day of August and September.

And I was able to make the most of every minute of it.

First major redefinition of the post-travel "me" started on the inside though, with my condo. I refocused my compact space for functionality and serenity - my bed is now just a mattress in the living room, frameless, and folds up against the wall during the day, like a Murphy bed, creating an impressive open space in the small yet large living room for yoga and meditation. If making room for these mind enhancing activities weren’t enough, I am living without internet and TV at home. All of these changes are an extension of my experiences during my travels, where I plugged into nature, laid roots in the earth, while discarding distractions.

The comfy couch and TV have slid over to the bedroom. With this revamped space, I was able to get back into Couchsurfing, and it's even harder than ever now to say "no" to a Couchrequest because I always think back to when I was surfing in Europe and desperate for hosts. Since returning, I've hosted (all individually) two French guys, two German girls, a British guy, and a Dutch man, a decorated travel veteran who has been to 50+ countries and still going strong, with the unfathomable ability to overcome any obstacles of travelling, able to sleep anywhere and hitchhike from dawn until sunset.

Amidst their company, I've managed to continue on with my busy summer, packed with numerous cultural events, plus cultivating my unbridled and somewhat unorthodox passions. Contrary to popular belief, there are lots to do in Calgary.

Some of my summer highlights can be seen here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11monthsandrew/sets/72157635575204771/

Through these awesome experiences, I've been meeting lots of wonderful people and getting even more ideas for yet more interesting experiences to come. I just can't wait for the next adventure, the next day, even the next moment to arrive.

And as promising as the future is, I can always look back to the past, at my travels, to realize that there is never anything to ever complain or grumble about.

It took a little while, but I have overcome the reverse culture shock of my distressful return to society. And Calgary provided the ideal home base for recovery. As it turns out, Calgary has the people and the resources to make anyone’s dreams come true. You only have to know where to look.

Saturday, 13 July 2013

The Plight of the Greeks - and the rest of Southern Europe

Most people are aware of the events of 20th century history causing the east-west political divide in Europe. However, I believe there is another divide that has gone largely unnoticed and has had major repercussions in the globalized 21st century.
At the Berlin Wall, the very centre of the east-west European political divide
This is probably the most interesting observation I made about Europe. It probably took my entire 10 months of travelling all around the continent to develop this theory of north-south division. I have since realized how bloody simple and obvious it is, yet I haven't met anyone else who has actually realized it until I explained it to them.

The root of what divides northern and southern Europe is the same phenomenon that determines almost every aspect of people's behaviour and culture all around the world - climate.

The climate in your environment infiltrates every facet of your lifestyle, affects every decision you make. And your decision will likely be different from the decision of someone living in an entirely different climate.

Europe's climate varies from north to south. See where I'm heading with this? Now if you will allow me to work backwards for one second, then I will explain the current state of affairs on this continent.

Europe is in troubled times economically. The EU currency is failing. Greece has filed for bankruptcy and youth unemployment is at 50%. Spain is also trying to save its skin and youth unemployment was as high as 75%. France and Italy are struggling, and little Cyprus is hanging on by a thread.

Wait a minute. Aren't all of these countries in the south?

That's right! So why are all of the southern countries struggling?
Peloponnese Mountains, Greece - 1 hour drive from my farmstay
I probably first noticed why when I was in Greece. I first arrived by bus in a small town, skipping the big cities such as Athens and Thessaloniki (which is unfortunate because I didn't get an urban perspective of the country). The first shop I entered looked like a cafe but, when I stepped inside, I was surprised to see up to 50 men all sitting around poker tables, gambling. And not a single woman, except the bartender. Shouldn't so many guys in such a small town be working right now? Certainly not risking throwing away their money in one normal afternoon!

Later on, my farmstay family would tell me more about life in rural Greece. They bring an outsider's perspective because they are Swiss-German but have lived on their farm here for 30 years. It was, and still is, incredibly backwards, although the situation has improved in the past 20 or so years. Men are predominantly out in town, while women generally stay home and tend to the house.
And if the women are cursed with immobility I guess it's the men sneaking into their houses, then their bedrooms. The host wife unfortunately got caught up in too many women only juicy conversations about who's doing who, even though everyone is married. Such behaviour, then conversation, it appeared, were not taboo and no different from talking about the weather.

People here are also laid back. Or lazy. Whichever term you prefer. In our olive picking crew there was myself, my Swiss German host, a French and Dutch helper, and an older Greek farmer. He was usually the last one ready, holding up the group, usually sitting at the table rolling a joint, and when finally got out into the fields, he was usually the first one taking a beer break.

So they're somewhat lazy and irresponsible. How can you blame them? The Greeks are blessed with a hot, hot climate, fresh food, and a snaking coastline of Mediterranean Sea and beaches, all just out their front door.
Nice, France - why would you live anywhere else?
Same with the Spanish with their all night partying and siestas during the afternoon heat, the Italians with their picturesque and inspiring mountainous cities and virtually unlimited supply of pasta and olive oil, and the French with their six weeks standard vacation and paradoxically healthy diet of wine and cheese. And don't even get me started on the Cypriots...

These countries for the most part share this desirable climate, great food, relaxed mentality. They also have a distinct, admired culture, and they know it, which leads them to be excessively proud, stubborn and resistant to change. They all have pretty low English speaking rates.

The northern European countries, by contrast, have colder climates and are as such more adaptable. Because they spend less time enjoying the outdoors they instead concentrate their time and efforts on education and innovation and learning the language of business - English. They have kept up with today's fast changing world by developing robust economies fuelled by an open-minded and creative work force.

But ultimately they are not blessed with good weather. So they spend their well earned money flying to southern Europe to enjoy the good Mediterranean life that they can't get back home but people like the Greeks and Spanish already have in their own backyard, if even for just a week or two.
Cinque Terre, Italy - 5 towns, car free, within walking distance, along cliff paths on the Mediterranean
This same divide can even be observed within individual countries. Italy is a prime example where the north and south are completely different, sometimes called different worlds that share only language in common. The north has a robust economy inhabited by orderly people, while the south is characterized by corruption, is run by the mafia and dragging down Italy's economy. Yet there's something beautiful in this chaos. No wonder that the southern island of Sicily is considered to be the romantic getaway to visit in Italy. There's an elevated passion mixed with ignorant bliss there you can't find in the north.

It's this passion for their land and yearning of the simple life that has prevented southerners such as the Greeks from keeping up with today's globalized economy. It's a game they're not adapted to play and win. They're happy with their little lives and prefer not to be interfered with. And I really do feel bad for them because the forces of globalization are tearing their means of living apart.
Elea, Greece - woke up to this view for 3 weeks straight
That's because I was there myself for 3 weeks, in this absolutely perfect situation, which I still remember as the best time of my trip. I woke up every day, peace and solitude greeting me in the form of a soft Mediterranean Sea breeze and a view, as if out of a painting, of blue sea on grey mountains on blue sky. I ate some of the best food of my trip, more than half of which consisted from the farm itself - a recently slain goat, lemons hanging from the tree, and from the garden which I helped till and spread the topsoil. And working outdoors in the olive orchard was its own reward.

Back home now, the divide from that Mediterranean life is great - harsh winters, bland olive oil, no beaches. My farmstay is making me seriously consider if I want to partake in the economic engine of Canada, or escape again one day to the simple life, to ignorance and bliss.

Sunday, 30 June 2013

Life After Travel

One friend and coworker keeps asking me the same question everytime he sees me.

"How's your soul?" 

He knows a lost soul when he sees one. He also understands the slow and slightly painful recovery process of reintegrating back into society after a soul discovering journey.
Back in Canada but still on the road
It has been almost 40 days since I made my much heralded return to Canada. But, in keeping with my blog title, it has been anything but normal since I came back. I feel like I have retained my magnetism for adventure, unable to escape it, simultaneously addicted by its pull.

Here's, in chronological order, why I have still felt like a traveller in my home country: I landed in Montreal, stayed one night with a friend who I met in Barcelona, took a bus to Toronto, spent a week with family, catching up with friends where I certainly felt my newfound contrasts to society and traditions, drove five days to Saskatchewan with a 70 year old hippie artist lady and 2 dogs, a time filled with interesting stories, stimulating but sometimes irritating conversations, and yet more irritating demands, and seeing beautiful Ontarian nature and the great flat prairies and car sleeping along the way, afterwards picked up a hitchhiker and dropped her off in Calgary, worked 2 days of training for my upcoming new job, drove to Vancouver with 2 guys from Kijiji and picked up another hitchhiker, a professional hobo, saw once again my captivating Rocky Mountains unfold before my eyes, spent 3 days with my best friend in his oceanview apartment on the English Bay, then drove back to Calgary with a Canadian rapper/producer who spent 12 years in Japan and his newly married Thai wife in a car so packed I could barely shift gears with my right hand.
The Rocky Mountains - soothing for the soul, massaging for the mind
Okay. Let's take a short break and catch our breaths. So at this point I had ventured across much of the great landscape of Canada, meeting strangers along the way and swapping stories, experiencing shocking revelations from my interactions with family, friends and peripheral meetings. Here is where I hoped adventure would end, and a return to the predictable 9 to 5 would begin. Not quite.

Upon my return to Calgary I stayed with a friend while getting back to work and reacquainting myself with friends, and dropping check marks on my massive to do list on the way to achieving full resettlement. Some big check marks included finding a new tenant for my condo, finding a roommate and a new place to rent, all which provided several headaches. After awhile I moved in with a friend who also owns in my building, Union Square, but in a few days the massive flood hit and I was evacuated, returning to my first friend's place. I worked several emergency midnight shifts throughout the week, then did some odd jobs with the City including volunteer work. During the city's flood recovery, I also managed to move into two more friend's places. Meanwhile my condo, which I have decided to move back into, and my place of work, City Hall, have both sustained heavy damage from the flood and I am not allowed back into either yet.
The flood - the Saddledome, where the Flames play, turned into a big soup bowl
In 40 days back in Canada I have still not yet stayed more than 10 days in one place, living out of a couple of duffle bags and my worldy possessions are spread out in 3 different places. I've remained nomadic in my home country, but how can I complain? I'm still living like a traveller. I've experienced the best and the worst that nature has thrown at me, and I'm surviving. Although it's hard living out of a backpack while holding a job, I guess I am not quite ready to be normal yet anyway. If anything, it has been a nice, slow transition out of my traveller's skin.

I've learned a few more things about myself along the way. I love my mountains! And Calgary (sorry Toronto, you will never have enough nature to compete with the wonderful West). But I will never ever fully shed my traveller's skin. And one day it will grow back so thick until I become the same unrecognizable Andrew, ready to get out into the world again.

Lost the last part of my traveller identity a few days ago - my hair  *tear*
Flickr link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/11monthsandrew/sets/72157634412910361/

Thursday, 19 July 2012

Driving Through 'Merica

My upcoming Europe-Asia tour has been much hyped and has been the central focus for my 11 month sabbatical. However, my sabbatical already started back on July 1 and, two weeks later, I consider my recently completed journey within my home continent to be the start of my adventure.

My friend Jackson and I just drove back from Calgary to Toronto through the United States and, despite being forced to brave long hours of monotonous freeway driving, relentless heat and humidity, and back-wrenching car sleeping, had a pretty awesome time. We drove through parts of Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota, Iowa, Illinois and Michigan.
Mt. Rushmore, South Dakota
Here is a quick list of my notables regarding our southern neighbour (caution: highly biased):
Cheap food - everything on the McD's menu is one to two dollars cheaper including $1.39 McChickens (I don't consider this real food, more manufactured stomach filler)
Cheap gas - we filled up for around $3.40/Gal or $0.90/L, except in Detroit where we somehow filled up for $1.33/L
Overweight people - consequence of the above
Credit cards - no insert chip payment
Road signs - too many, too many words, all in English
Road tolls - one thing they do right
Speed limits - up to 75 mph or 120 km/h on the interstates
Beautiful landscapes - we drove through rolling pastures home to happy grazing cows through much of Montana (rather contrary to America's reputation for factory farms)
Propaganda advocating God and condemning abortion
Liquor sold at gas stations
Detroit - a real ghetto. Also, liquor stores everywhere, not a single coffee shop
Surprise fact? Kinder Surprise is illegal. Guns are not; and
Gun shops
Abandoned house

I also had two fun interactions during my trip as well. As I was leaving a McDonald's one kid from a group of three said hi to me. I said "hey, I'm Canadian, eh?" and one of them asked me "is weed legal there?" The conversation ended soon after but I had a good laugh. Damned kids these days.

And pulling up to a red light there was a man sitting with a sign which wrote "homeless and hungry." I offered him 50 cents change. He refused. I asked "why?" and he just told me that he was hungry. I offered him a granola bar. He just shook his head. Before I could ask why, the light turned green. We drove away bewildered.

All in all, our drive through America was a good time and made for a good story. And knowing me, you can expect a moral to this story...

As pleasing to the ears as is the sound of someone travelling across the world, one cannot underestimate the experiences available close to home. I honestly can't wait to get back to North America so I can check out Utah, Yellowstone, the Oregon coast, Portland, North Saskatchewan and Yukon.

And, of course, I can't forget about my adopted hometown of Calgary and my adopted backyard of the Rocky Mountains. Just before driving off, two days of Stampeding in Calgary reminded me of its underrated and progressive culture, and five straight days playing in the Rockies reminded me of its matchless beauty and endless hiking opportunities to last the rest of my life.

Lake O'Hara, most beautiful spot in the Rockies

Sunday, 24 June 2012

11 Months! Excited Yet?

Everyone and their cat these days seems to be posing this simple and straightforward question my way, yet everytime I think about it, the answer becomes more elusive.

ARE YOU EXCITED YET?! After a brief pause I usually say something along the lines of "to tell you the truth, I don't know..."

As busy as I have been preparing for this presumably exciting trip, I haven't had time to feel excited. And as someone who tries to live day by day, my focus should reside in my current place. But it can be hard to do this when it's easy to mentally checkout until it's time to travel.

I initially spent much of this past month being a hermit and enjoying simple things I won't have when I travel, such as TV. But I was just wasting what precious time I had left here, as well as neglecting the good times had and awesome friendships built over the past 4 years in my adopted hometown of Calgary. The past few weeks, and particularly this weekend, have changed that, switching my focus to spending time with friends.


As I write, I am languishing among the fallout from last night's farewell party consisting of empty wine bottles strewn about, broken shards of glass and wine and pizza stains on white carpet. The cleanup will suck, but in the meantime the mess is a pleasant reminder from last night. Today has been near perfect too. I went to the bar to watch some Euro Cup, got stopped by a photographer to take some pictures of me for some promotional company's Facebook page, stopped at a friend's place, then a cute little book shop. On this lovely day I walked everywhere, and on the final walk home, with the warm sun on my face and the cool breeze on my skin, I had one of those "life is good" moments that brought a quasi-tear to my eye.


Sure, I am probably excited about 11 months off, but I'm just as excited about the rest of my time in Calgary. So give me a call and let's hang out! Let's make some lasting memories to hold on to until I return from my 11 months.