10 Days of Quiet - Vipassana Meditation

My job is to convince you to take a 10-day Vipassana meditation retreat after reading this. If I can convince even one of you, my faithful readers, to embark on this amazing and transformative journey, then I have fulfilled my called-upon duty. If none of you are convinced, then I have failed.

The retreat was held at Camp Kasota by Sylvan Lake, typically a kids camp

By taking a 10-day retreat I received an intense introduction to the path of Dhamma, and took my first small steps on what could be a long life journey to enlightenment.

The path of Dhamma was discovered by Gotama in 5th century BC. Gotama practiced Vipassana meditation until, one day, as he sat under the Bodhi tree, he attained enlightenment and became a Buddha. At that moment he eliminated all of his miseries, leaving his mind with only love and compassion. Gotama the Buddha, enlightened at the age of 35, then spent every waking moment of the next 45 years of his life, right until the moment of his death, teaching people the path of Dhamma.

What truly sets the path of Dhamma apart from any other way of life is it's universal and non-secular, thus, it is accessible to all individuals regardless of religion or race. Dhamma does not contain any gods or idols, no rites or rituals. Thus, anyone can take the path of Dhamma without renouncing their own belief system. Even "the Buddha" is neither god nor idol; anyone who becomes enlightened is technically a Buddha. This means you or I could become a Buddha - we only need to become enlightened.

It's late April and Sylvan Lake was still frozen

But isn't Buddhism a secular religion, you ask? After Gotama became Buddha, he taught only the path of Dhamma to the world, nothing else. Buddhism sprung from the Dhamma teachings, as a new religion, constructed by others who slightly tweaked Dhamma. Even the subtlest of changes no longer made it universal. Instead, these changes made it secular, and tainted the purity of the path of Dhamma.

The path of Dhamma preaches three universal aspects: sīla, samādhi and paññā. These words are in the ancient northern Indian language of Pali, now lost to the world, originally used by Gotama in his Dhamma teachings. Dhamma is in Pali, while today's more popular term Dharma is the same word in Sanskrit.

Sīla, or morality, is good behaviour, consisting of 5 precepts: no killing, no stealing, no telling lies, no sexual misconduct and no intoxicants.

Samādhi is mastery of the mind, which is achieved through the act of meditation.

Paññā is wisdom, attained through practicing samādhi and gaining understanding of all impermanence, or anicca.

The cabins at Camp Kasota

The 10-day retreat puts these three universal aspects into practice. Strict rules during the retreat helped to achieve the 5 precepts of sīla. During the entire course, sitters (participants) take Noble Silence, which means they do not talk to anyone (except the managers and teachers as required) nor make any eye contact. New students eat only fruit past noon, old students (returning students) do not eat anything past noon, they are allowed only tea. There are no reading or writing materials, nor electronic devices including cell phones. Males and females are segregated the entire time in roped off areas, like invisible walls. All possible distractions are removed, forcing sitters to be introspective.

Meditation is practiced about 11 hours per day, developing samādhi, mastery of the mind. Days 1-4 involve the practice of Anapana meditation. Anapana focuses on the breath and the physical sensations around the area of the nose. This sharpens the mind and prepares it for the next step, which is Vipassana meditation, practiced on Days 5-10. Vipassana involves objectively observing the entire body, detecting sensations - throbbing, heat, cold, pain, itching, tingling, ants crawling, etc. Once the sitter advances through Vipassana, he or she learns paññā, or wisdom, by detection sensations throughout the entire body at once, with a complete poise and calm, mindful yet unreactive - with a zen mind.

In an advanced stage of paññā, the sitter experiences the entire body at a subatomic level, vibrating, experiencing the Law of Nature within oneself, that of continuous change, or all impermanence, anicca in Pali. This experience reminds me of the Matrix, the moment when Neo realizes he is The One, and he sees everything as code. This is enlightenment.

Anicca - Pali word for "all impermance" (also my tattoo consideration) 

So how exactly does this work? Prepare yourself for a philosophical barrage.

When we experience a reaction (saṅkhāra) to a sensation at a conscious level, that reaction sinks into our mind's subconscious, like an abyss. Since the moment of our birth, our subconscious begins to accumulate all of our saṅkhāras. This is why we react negatively to things - even if we pretend things don't bother us at the conscious level, we still feel negativity, and the source of the negativity is in the root of our minds, in our subconscious.

Through objectively observing one's own body, treating all sensations equanimously (not having preference for one type of sensation over another), the mind trains itself not to react to sensations caused by external objects on the body, or to sensations of thought in the mind. The conscious level of the mind develops resistance to cravings (attachments) and avulsions (negative reactions), the source of all misery. Soon, the conscious mind conquers its cravings and avulsions. However, this is only the surface level of the mind. Once the conscious level of the mind is purified, then all of those saṅkhāras accumulated from the past, begin to bubble to the surface from the subconscious mind.

Over many years of practice, the subconscious mind also becomes purified of all cravings and avulsions. Then enlightenment will be reached, the mind's source of all misery is eliminated, and all that's left is love and compassion.

Daily meditation was instructed by audio and video recordings of S.M. Goenka from India. Vipassana meditation got rid of his migraines, and caused him to renounce his life of business and start a non-profit to spread the Dhamma teachings

So that's how it works! If you're still not convinced I will throw you one more bone to chew on...

While most belief systems ask you to behave with morality, the temptations are always present, causing people to break their morality. Religions ask you to accept its theories at a surface level, however, this does not address how the subconscious mind thinks and reacts to temptations. With Dhamma, sitters go beyond just accepting the theories of Dhamma; they use experiential learning, through meditating and looking inward, to confirm that those theories are true. This is the true hook of the path of Dhamma.

Experiential learning provides the ultimate wisdom. When modern scientists recently used quantum theory to determine that all matter, animate and inanimate, was made of subatomic particles, vibrating at blinding speeds, they were shocked to find out that an enlightened being in India already obtained this knowledge. Scientists had the theory but not the experiential learning, which was accomplished by the enlightened being through looking inward.

This is the ultimate example of a mindblowing connection between modern and ancient science.

Another look at the main dining hall

I entered the 10-day retreat simply looking for some peace and quiet from the fast-paced ultra distracting city life, and also for a new experience which a friend recommended as life changing. I came in without any idea of what I was about to do or learn, but with an open mind. I emerged from it feeling very happy, like a thin shield surrounded me, repelling negativity. The truth is, there is no shield, and that negative sensations were (and still are) hitting me 24/7, but I chose not to react to them. This is what Dhamma taught me, and as I was able to learn through experience.

My best friend Henry happened to complete the same 10-day Vipassana meditation retreat in India at nearly the same time (he will also blog about it) and he also had a similar experience.

This certainly was no vacation. It was hard work, probably harder than my office job, and I went through many highs and lows during my practice, as did all sitters, many who returned several times. But the benefits are farther-reaching than any stereotypical vacation.

You can do the same. I highly recommend this to you, especially if you experience negativity and stress from all directions on your daily path. Even if you are generally a happy person, life is full of ups and downs, and practicing Dhamma enables you to weather those ups and downs with a strong determination (adhiṭṭhāna). And it's amazing the difference that simply being distraction free and able to be introspective can have on your mind.

The non-profit organization, simply Dhamma, holds courses almost all over the world. Payment is by donation after the course. Check it out at www.dhamma.org.

Thanks for reading!

~Metta (Pali for loving compassion)

March 2013 - meditating in the 

Exposing the Truth About Genetically Modified Foods: Part 2 - The Politics

So are our governments doing anything about preventing genetically modified organism (GMO) foods from ever seeing the light of supermarket shelves? If there is anything I've come to understand, it's that most federal governments are corrupt. And this was confirmed at the speaker tour presentation I attended, where a scientist spoke of his personal story.

Dr. Shiv Chopra worked at Health Canada as a reviewer of applications for new foods entering the marketplace. He experienced undue pressure in his job, leading him and several colleagues to file grievances to the Supreme Court of Canada. He won the landmark case, leading to the banning of the use of the genetically modified drug recombinant bovine growth hormone (rBGH) in cows. However, since then the victory has not slowed the approval of GMO foods from being sold in our supermarkets.

Undue pressure is also coming from Canada's biggest trading partner south of the border. But they have their own problems to deal with. In the United States, approximately 83% of all corn, 89% of soy, and 93% of sugar beets are genetically modified. Somehow, over 80% of products on the shelves of the supposedly healthy supermarket Whole Foods contain GMOs, in the form of modified corn starch and other such byproducts. This is the shocking level of infiltration into the marketplace that GMOs have achieved.

After reading part 1, if you are not yet convinced that GMOs are bad, let me shoot down the final argument - it has been proven that organic crops produce the same yields, if not better, than GMOs. GMOs outperform in the short term, but, over time, as the soil is stripped of all its nutrients and biodiversity, it loses its ability to produce crops.

Certainly, the argument that GMO crops will save the world is a failed one, unless you consider that growing more crops for just a few years helps to feed the world.

Anyway, the world already produces enough food every day to feed 14 billion people, twice the current population. The food crisis we all hear about in the media is not due to food production, but food distribution, politics, and food wastage. Up to 40% of all food is wasted during and after production, much of it wasted in the household kitchen from our very own hands.

There seems to be some big conspiracy between Monsanto and the US Department of Agriculture (USDA) to allow the proliferation of GMOs to occur. Indeed, it is suspicious when people like lawyer Michael Taylor have flip flopped back and forth between both entities throughout his career, slowly climbing one run higher on the ladder with every flip and flop.

Monsanto has its sticky fingers in more than just the honey pot of the USDA. When it's not threatening farmers whose crops have been taken over from Monsanto seeds, it is busy spreading false information. In order to be as truthful and unbiased as possible, I should disclose that the landmark Seralini study on the health impacts of GMOs on rats, which I mentioned in Part 1 of the blog, has been discredited by many health organizations, including the medical journal that initially published it. Form your own opinion on this one, but my gut tells me that Monsanto is behind these people discrediting the studies.

Despite the gloomy news, there have been some positive developments in the fight against GMOs. In the past, states have tried implementing GMO labelling policies, but cowered back due to threats from Monsanto to file law suits against those states. However, Connecticut recently became the first state to successfully pass the law... with one big caveat: that 4 other states in the northeastern US must pass the same law for it to fully come into effect. This is progress, if painful to watch.

Outside of North America, the story appears much different. Several nations and governing bodies have taken a firm stand by banning GMOs, including the European Union. It's time for us to follow suit.

If you are still sceptical, I urge you to use your common sense with the undisputed facts. Does it really make sense to eat food grown with synthetic chemicals sprayed on it? Does it make sense to eat food made up of components from known carcinogenic Agent Orange, used to kill trees during the Vietnam War?

Now think about the bigger picture, about life and how precious and precariously balanced it is. Is it really so easy to "modify" the building blocks of life with absolutely no consequences? Mother Nature has always taught the human race that it cannot control it. The Gaia Theory states that the earth is a self-regulating system. When humans try to exert too much control over nature, nature resists, pushes back.

So what can you do about GMOs? You've already achieved the first step, which is becoming aware of the issue. Continue to take the blindfold off; get educated about what you put into your body. Talk about it, spread the word for the sake of the health of your peers. Make the most of your food, don't waste it. For example, beet leaves and cauliflower leaves can all be eaten. Tea leaves can be steeped twice, or even three times. Then vote with your wallet; what you spend your money on shows what you care about. Show that you care about what you put into your body. These are the little ways we can save the world - GMOs are certainly not the answer, and to be avoided at all costs for the sake of your precious health.

As my fridge magnet says: eat organic food... or as your grandparents called it - food!

Exposing the Truth About Genetically Modified Foods: Part 1 - The Science

Over the past century, North America's food system has slowly been compromised by the industrialization and commoditization of food. As food technology advances, the potential long term impacts worsen, like a slowly expanding bubble. For the sake of profit, food quality and public health is neglected, the environment is being destroyed, animals are being bred into lives of suffering, only to be relieved by slaughter. And transparency is at an all-time low so that the public is blindfolded from the enormous direct and indirect consequences of modern agriculture.

The next major technological advancement in food, genetically modified organisms (GMOs), is pushing new boundaries in the global food system. Once again, the stakes are higher: corporate profits juicier, transparency worse than mystery novels, and not surprisingly, potential for environmental destruction and human disease have never been more catastrophic.

I was privileged to have attended two events that enlightened me on genetically modified foods - the documentary GMO OMG at the Justice Film Festival, and a speaker tour featuring two scientists, one an expert on the real impacts of GMOs, and another who spoke first hand about government corruption in its approach to approving foods for market. Here is what I learned:

Genetically modified organisms are created in a very sensitive controlled process, akin to a genetic lottery, by mixing the plant bacteria to be modified with bacteria that hold the desired traits, and allowing them to swap DNA. However, this complex process results in the creation of rogue proteins which alter the natural state of the crop, something Monsanto admitted in their studies.

Monsanto disregarded these results as having negligible impact on health, however, scientists were sceptical, and one boldly replicated the study and found scary results: over 2 years of feeding rats, Seralini discovered that GMOs increased the rate of autism, Parkinson's, diseases that spiked globally since GMOs first entered the market, as well as cancers. He also fed another control group of rats with foods exposed to pesticides and found high rates of diabetes and cancers.

If GMOs and conventional crops grown with pesticides are having such a deadly impact on rats, how is it affecting humans? It's no wonder that over the past 30 years, the heydey of pesticides and GMOs in North America that, despite being one of the wealthiest, it has dubiously achieved being the unhealthiest continent in the world, with the US in particular leading the way in obesity, diabetes, and cancer rates. It's also no coincidence that autism first appeared only in the 1990s and is now afflicting 1 in 50 newly born Americans.

Over 90% of today's GMO crops are designed to withstand pesticides. Thus conventional farms are blanketing their fields of GMO crops with a deadly soup of pesticides and herbicides to control pests and weeds. The smartest farmers will tell you that its greatest asset is its soil. Healthy soil will allow nature to work its magic and allow biodiversity to thrive. Monoculture farming with combined RoundUp ready GMO crops and pesticides depletes soil of its nutrients, forcing farmers to rely more heavily on synthetic fertilizers, resulting in a vicious cycle that eventually drains all life out of the soil.

Meanwhile, the targets of RoundUp, pests and weeds are evolving to survive against the pesticides meant to kill it. Monsanto, happy to accept the challenge, has recently developed newer, more deadly GMO crops to sell to its vulnerable and willing farmers. These crops actually contain components of the chemical Agent Orange, a known carcinogenic. Would you eat food knowing it will cause you cancer?

This dangerous game humans are playing with nature is having an impact beyond just us. GMO crops are an invasive species, meaning that once they are introduced, they will take over a geographic area, out-competing the native species. The use of pesticides has also led to the drastic reduction of the global bee population. Bees are delicately tied to the survival of the human species - they pollinate nearly three quarters of the world's crops.

So as you can see, the impacts of GMOs are all encompassing. And the instruments behind these silent killer crops are systemic, beyond just Monsanto. Part 2 exposes how our very own government, the entity charged to protect its people, has failed us.

This is About Introverts - But Extroverts Should Read This Too

Nearly half of all people in the world are introverts. Yet they are rarely glimpsed, like some threatened species. So are they all in hiding?

Introverts can be likened to oranges masquerading as apples in a society of apples. However, extroverts and introverts cannot be compared like apples and oranges.

No person can be a full-on extrovert or introvert, but simply lean more one way than the other. Every individual is a blend of both. I lean quite heavily towards introversion - more than just about anyone I know in fact. I have always struggled with this trait, regularly braving uncomfortable social situations, concealing my taboo tendency towards being alone. But then I watched an amazing TED talk called The Power of Introversion, which really shook up my thinking about introversion.

Today we live in a world tailored for extroverts, a product of the modern mass migration to cities, creating communities and work environments where nobody knows eachother, yet everyone must learn to get along and strive towards a common goal. Our offices are thus designed with minimal privacy, allowing neighbours to spy on eachother's monitors and hear every word uttered. In these open situations, extroverts dominate. However, the underrated introvert has more to contribute than meets the eye.

While extroverts slither into the spotlight at every opportunity and assert themselves as fearless leaders, sometimes the best leaders are introverts. This is because introverts recognize the need to give their colleagues space to operate without boundaries, a key to unleashing their inner creative spirit.

Extroverted leaders, in contrast, tend to imprint their vision on the whole group, oppressing creativity, as well as micromanage excessively, imposing their will on others. Their fearless leadership ironically instills fear in their colleagues. Indeed, individuals tap their creative juices when they tune out the voices around them. Those aha! moments in life rarely come to one in boardroom meetings or in bars, but in one's place of solitude, a place with no unwanted voices or distractions - one's "earth spot."

My "earth spot", my place of solitude - farm near Elea, Greece

Many of the world's most famous people and greatest leaders past and present were introverts: Gandhi, Albert Einstein and J.K. Rowling are some examples. Introverted leaders in business and innovation include Warren Buffett and Bill Gates. Even the late Nelson Mandela was a self-proclaimed introvert. While these leaders derived inspiration and great ideas from solitude, they were also passionate for and loved being around people, and recognized the need to collaborate with people to accomplish their lofty goals.

I may not be a leader, but I am a self proclaimed introvert with some great ideas too. I am also a lone traveler. I went backpacking for 10 months and had some of my best ideas come to me on long bus rides, or long walks up and down foreign streets, or connecting with nature, the ultimate grounding force. My own "earth spot" is on a Greek farm overlooking the Mediterranean, an ultimate place of solitude. My best moments and memories, however, were shared with people, people who I have made lasting friendships with. The people were what ultimately defined my trip. One such moment was the time I Couchsurfed in a home with 1 gracious host and 6 other travellers, sharing wonderful food and inspiring conversation.

How does an introvert spend a night in a cramped room with 8 people?

Today, I know who I am, how I am, and in what situations I am or am not comfortable. I may not like small talk, but I love instant connection with people through common ground. I may be shy and taciturn in large groups, but I am happy to talk to those who are genuinely interested in what I have to say. I may not thrive in the loud and superficial atmosphere of bars and parties, but I enjoy small and intimate get togethers with a common purpose.

I thrive when I am alone. My thoughts flow freely, and my thoughts are mine alone, and nobody elses. However, I need people too. And when I go too long without human interaction, I feel lonely just like everyone else. In fact, I get out and meet people all the time. I care about people too and want to share wit them my wisdom and ideas that I derive from solitude, and are eager to hear their ideas too. It's also why I blog; because I am eager to share, but am unable to share such thoughts in person. The key for me is to build a healthy balance between social time and "me" time.

I ask you readers to be conscious of your introversion, and recognize your need for personal space, so you can foster your own thoughts or ideas, and maintain your self awareness and confidence. If you are introverted, then recognize introversion in others in your life, and give them the space they deserve, but also encourage them to share their wonderful ideas with you.

Because at first glance, we may be like apples and oranges, but we're all the same on the inside, and have much to learn from talking to eachother.

Amazing TED talk - The Power of Introverts:
http://www.ted.com/talks/susan_cain_the_power_of_introverts.html

Couchsurfing - A Community of Travellers

As I write this article, Duncan Stokes, a traveller from Britain, is staying on my couch. At his request, I shall describe him as "lanky with a goatee." I will also add, this time without his consent, that he's not like most Brits in that he can't really hold his liquor. He's not like most Brits in the way he travels either. He has been on some extensive adventures: trained from Moscow to Beijing, drove across all 48 mainland US states, scootered all around southeast Asia, and cycled from the top of Scotland to the bottom of England.

Duncan came to Calgary because he was "bored with work" and wanted to live in Canada for awhile. But he quickly discovered that he wasn't suited to the weather; and it wasn't even that cold yet! So after a couple of days on my couch, he up and got a flight to LA where he will buy a motorcycle and ride it down to Peru in search of Macchu Picchu. One word comes to mind when I think of Duncan - spontaneous! I met Duncan through the Couchsurfing (CS) website, and only first met him face-to-face when he showed up on my doormat.

At a Couchsurfing free hugs event - Trafalgar Square, London

The previous week, couple Mathias and Anne-Laure, from the lonely island of St. Pierre, belonging to France yet lies just 500 km from Quebec, showed up with their energetic dog to graciously stay on that same couch. We (dog excluded) shared a few beers at Calgary's main monthly Couchsurfing meetup event in Calgary, which occurs first Mondays at the Hop 'n' Brew. This month's meetup was more alive than usual, with at least 40 Couchsurfers shuttering in from the cold to make friends and share their travel stories. Mathias is a journalist and formally interviewed me in the pub, sticking that big fuzzy microphone in my mug. He asked me about Calgary and my thoughts on travelling, generating soundbytes destined for a radio station back on his obscure island of St. Pierre.

In the past few months I have opened my doors to 9 different Couchsurfers with exotic origins and exciting adventures such as Duncan and Mathias.

However, as great as hosting is, the best part about CS is the surfing. During my 10-month sabbatical backpacking through Europe from July 2012 to May 2013, I visited 20 countries and surfed on 33 different couches, and met some amazing and memorable Couchsurfers.

With Yulia after her dance lessons

Meet Yulia from Moscow. She has professed to hitchhiking over 25,000 km in her young life, criss-crossing Europe several times over. She is fluent in 4 languages and is aiming for 9. She is also a yogi, hardcore vegan, and a dance teacher. I stayed with her for 4 days, basking in her shining optimism. I had a truly local experience with her when she took me to a bustling market in suburban Moscow. What was special about it was that it sold discount food! Yes, food that was no longer fresh nor presentable, yet still edible. Yulia is now enjoying the sun and surf in Portugal.

Marc holding a concert, Kiss style, on his birthday

Meet Marc, a man who has done it all. Throughout his life he was a video engineer for the Rolling Stones, joined the US Army, ascending to the rank of officer before losing faith in his job and bailing, and is now teaching English in Prague, and enjoying life more than ever. I met Marc in the epic tomato fight in Spain called La Tomatina, then several months later, stayed with him for 3 days in Prague, where I got to watch him hold a birthday concert starring his own band.

Awaiting the tomatoes - at La Tomatina with Couchsurfers Stig from Denmark, Sam from US, Hanga from Romania, and Claire from US

But few experiences match the time I was hosted in Budapest, my favourite city in Europe. My host was Gabor, a Couchsurfing legend with over 500 references on his profile. He is also a travel superstar, having hitchhiked to some very remote and avoided areas in the world, such as Pakistan and Siberia, and proudly calls himself on his Facebook page The Most Travelled Hungarian. At the time I arrived, he was hosting 4 different Couchsurfing parties at once, plus a friend and his 2-year old from Germany. However, the guy who stole the show was CSer Nicolas, from France. Nicolas, a philosophy and English teacher back in Nice, France, is on an epic pilgrimage of self discovery and world change, travelling around the world with no money (save a bit for visas), relying on kindness along the way, and plans on writing a book about the human connection. While Nicolas may not have any cash, he offers seemingly lifetimes worth of inspiration and wisdom, like a modern day messiah. To this day, I still can't believe the dinner table conversation we had that night, which was about how best to hitchhike across Pakistan to get to India.

At a Couchsurfing haven in Budapest

Nicolas is someone who has had a profound impact on my life in the space of a few days. His incredible journey is one that I still follow regularly through his blog posts on his Facebook page Teacher On The Road, living vicariously through his words and images. He is currently teaching English in China.

These are some of the most interesting people I met through Couchsurfing, people who shaped my travels as well as who I am today; people who I still call friends, who I will keep in touch with and potentially visit again one day. My meetings with Couchsurfers in Europe, and now through hosting here in Calgary have greatly enriched my life as much as I have enriched theirs.

Couchsurfing may still sound to you a bit like a "free hotel for travellers" and can sometimes be that way. However, it really is a community for travellers to meet eachother and make life long connections.

Couchsurfing has become quite popular today in backpacking circles, but its rise was a bit tumultuous. The seed for Couchsurfing.org was planted in 1999, when American Casey Fenton e-mailed 1,500 students at his future travel destination, Iceland, asking for accommodation, and received 50 replies. Upon his return to the US, he began work on the website, eventually opening Couchsurfing in 2003, from San Francisco. When it was finally becoming popular, in 2006, a major database failure caused Casey to shut down the website. However, the community members rose up to the challenge, forming collectives to work together and revive the website. Today CS is going strong, with over 6 million members.

Being a one-of-a-kind website, there are naturally many questions about how it works. The one you attentive readers are probably wondering about most is: is it safe to use?

To overcome the trust barrier, Couchsurfing has in place a rating system which functions like most shopping websites. Much like rating your favourite products online, Couchsurfers can rate each other with either a "positive" or "negative" experience, including a short explanation why. There are additional ways to validate your character, such as verifying your address by receiving a postcard with a verification code on it, and a vouching system, where the most trusted CSers of the community dole out the equivalent of "gold stars" to CSers they deem trustworthy. If a CSer gets enough vouches, he or she can start doling it out themselves, and such is how the vouching system proliferates itself.

Still, it's not a perfect system, and these failsafes are not enough to prevent negative incidents from occurring due to people using the website with poor intentions, such as mooching off of their host, or making inappropriate sexual advances. Negative incidents can also be caused by misunderstandings between host and surfer, or unexpected events such as emergencies or changed travel plans. Such can result in Couchsurfers giving eachother negative references, some ranging from justified to completely untruthful, others dangerous to hilarious, and which challenge profile viewers to use their best judgment of character based on loose subjective descriptions (often in poor broken English too).

The cozy interior of a Couchsurfer's "dacha" - a Russian country home in the countryside

In fact there is a forum on Couchsurfing called "Funny Negative References" where contributors post the most outrageous references they find from other profiles (omitting names, of course), and just have fun with it. While it can be fun to publicly scrutnize negative references, it is just a way for Couchsurfers to blow off steam and to recognize, satirically, that CS is not perfect.

I should now take the time and effort to clear up a big misconception about Couchsurfing:

It is NOT a dating website. But it can be... way to clear that up, huh?

While it certainly is not first and foremost a dating website, it is a community where like-minded individuals can meet and, if the feeling is right, hook up. I have two friends in Calgary who met through Couchsurfing and are now married.

Anna, a Dutch girl living in Bucharest, Romania hosted me and introduced me to hitchhiking

To be completely truthful, when I first signed up for Couchsurfing, I exhibited a slight bias towards meeting the opposite sex. But since then I have evolved to become a true community member, with the intention of meeting interesting people, bringing them together, or providing a couch to those who write a thoughtful enough message.

I have heard through the Couchsurfing grapevine of bad incidents happening through CS. I will say one thing - if you are a woman, be very careful surfing in Muslim countries, where men are culturally restrained and ready to let loose through CS. And in Italy, which is an anomaly, really. Italy has somehow produced chock fulls of traditional thinking, macho men, and it shows on CS. Through my experience, there seems to be an extremely low ratio of Italian women using Couchsurfing, and all the guys selected gender preference as "female." (Sorry to the good Italians, if I offended you. This is of course a blanket statement. I repeat, just a blanket statement.)

Some of the most common travellers to Canada are Germans and French. Here I am hosting two of them! 

Fortunately, I personally have yet to have a bad encounter on Couchsurfing. Two experiences that came closest to being bad were when the cat of my host in St. Petersburg peed on my jeans sitting on the floor, and when my host in Glasgow played videogames late into the night, on the couch that I was tired and needing to sleep on! Another experience that comes to mind is when I stayed in a squat in Brussels, with no running hot water, old reused mattresses with no sheets, and a dirty kitchen covered with dumpster-dived food, taken over by fruit flies. While most would call this disgusting and uncomfortable, I thought it was an interesting experience worth trying once!

David Beaumont, from England, baked me a Yorkshire pudding on National Yorkshire Pudding Day. I hosted David in August. He is now in Mexico

If you are just starting out Couchsurfing, and would prefer to avoid these unseemly encounters, just follow these tips and no harm will come your way:

1. Do NOT rely on it as the sole source for accommodation. If you do you will choose poor hosts and eventually have a negative incident. Have a backup plan such as a hostel, or tenting. In 10 months in Europe I actually only Couchsurfed one third of the days. The rest consisted of hostels and work stays.
2. Pay it forward. If you plan on travelling in the future, start hosting now. Hosts prefer to accommodate CSers who have themselves hosted, because they will know how to behave as surfers.
3. Only trust people with several references. I would say 5+ is the critical point at which a CSer becomes trustworthy enough to place your safety in their hands.
4. Fill out your profile. Consequently, carefully scrutinize each profile you come across. Good profiles are long or carefully written and tell enough about that person to validate their character, as well as their surfing or hosting situation. Naturally, it is best to choose CSers with similar interests to you.
5. If you are surfing, take your time to send a good Couchrequest. Write to your host and appeal to him or her as a human being and potentially as a future friend.

Conversely, you will know Couchsurfing is not for you if you:
1. Do not trust easily, or are not comfortable with meeting people through this thing called the Internet.
2. Do not have the time or effort to plan around others. Some hosts have many rules and restrictions, what you can do in their home, or when you can be there. Some surfers expect you to spend time with them and show them around town.
3. Do not have the flexibility or spontaneity to plan around others and for unexpected events, such as last minute cancellations.
4. Prefer staying in a prime location where hotels and hostels are usually located. Many hosts live in less touristy areas far out of the centre, and I have occasionally gotten lost trying to find them.
5. Prefer to travel in comfort and security. The term "couch" is only metaphorical. Often times it actually is a couch, but sometimes you get a comfy mattress in your own bedroom, other times there could be no pillows or blankets, and at the rarest of times you share the same sleeping surface as your host.
6. As the saying goes, have a lot of money and you like to spend it.

As you can see, Couchsurfing is not for everyone, and using it properly takes a lot of time and effort, but the rewards are worth it.

Besides hosting and surfing each city has a message board where people can organize get togethers or post exciting events that are happening locally, such as language exchanges, coffee, festivals, music and theatre, photowalks, hikes, bar and clubbing and much, much more. In new cities, I often post looking for a partner in crime to meet up for the day, wandering the streets, exploring the cafes and bars. In Calgary, I have on more than one occasion hosted a board game night, as well as posted events such as film festivals, and even tried looking for a roommate through CS.

On a photowalk in Portugal

Couchsurfing is a constantly evolving website and community, and has steadily grown as backpacking has become more common. Unfortunately, it has experienced a few setbacks according to the community driven individuals. CS recently became a for-profit "corporation", which can only mean the degradation of the integrity of the website to attract more users. Not everyone belongs to CS, yet several recent changes have resulted in an influx of undesirables. Couchsurfing's membership grew by 2 million in the past year alone. Thrusting CS into the mainstream is not the answer to maintaining a healthy community based on trust. One website trying to be the "new Couchsurfing" is BeWelcome.org, but it just doesn't enough membership and, in my opinion, lacks an integral component to verify others - there is no reference system. However, I did sign up and succesfully host one German girl through Be Welcome, and we are still friends today.

Despite all this, Couchsurfing is still a strong and vibrant community and one that I am proud to be a part of.

I am a Couchsurfer for life:
because I seek genuine experiences and cultures in new cities, which can be best achieved through a local guide;
because I host, always remembering what it was like when I was travelling and desperate for just a roof and a flat, if slightly soft, surface in which to sleep;
to make friends from across the globe; and
lastly, though not least, to save money

On the Road Again, Part 2 - West Is Best

After a week of hiking all around the amazing red landscape of Utah, it was time to change gears. The west coast sprinkled a little bit of moisture on my dry face and added some colour to my red palette. I gave myself up to vulnerability and spontaneity, trademarks of my holistic approach when I was backpacking through Europe.

Words of wisdom - bench, Eugene, OR

After a 10 hour drive, blistering through the Nevada desert at the legal speed limit of 80 mph (128 km/hr), I arrived just outside of San Francisco. I was welcomed in Oakland by my friend, Courtney, who I met in Berlin in March, and with a hearty home cooked meal.

For the subsequent few nights in the Bay Area I found, through Couchsurfing, a six-person commune in which lived a nudist, and at the time hosted five Couchsurfers. Interesting place, to say the least.

Gogol Bordello at the Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Festival, Golden Gate Park, San Francisco

Golden State Warriors NBA preseason game, Oakland

All too soon, it was time to leave San Fran, and so I wound my way up the scenic Pacific Coast of California. Car sleeping on a highway turnout by the ocean, I let the waves lull me to sleep.

Glass Beach, Fort Bragg - glass beads made from landfill bottles worn down by the ocean 

The following morning, finally, I arrived in the state of Oregon, which I had been yearning to visit since an unlikely encounter with a very interesting person from here, who I met while traveling through Italy last October. In maybe the hippiest city in North America, Eugene, I had an unforgettable time, fitting in snugly with the strong culture of bike lovers, vegans, backyard farmers, and craft beer swiggers.

Gate at a collective house made from old bicycle parts

Upon leaving Eugene, I shot back towards the Pacific coast to awe at the mighty yet steadying presence of ocean waves crashing into jagged rocks, towering cliffs, and beige beaches.

Seal Rock Beach, Newport, Oregon

And then there was Portland. What I really came to the west coast to see: Portland is a larger and more well known version of sleepy Eugene; it is the self-proclaimed bicycle capital of North America, rejecting highway building since the 80's; its slogan is "Keep Portland Weird" and it is home of the unsurprisingly weird show Portlandia, which is a pretty good indication of what it's like to live there.

Portland Farmer's Market - high standards and integrity market offering great local food 

Portland has been in my dreams since the idea of it first planted itself in my brain and it was exciting to finally be there in person. Not only that, but I arrived on the weekend where the city comes alive, and found the perfect Couchsurfing host, Ben, who took me on a day trip along the Columbia River gorge with its myriad waterfalls.

Multnomah Falls, Oregon

I left Oregon with such a favourable impression that I think I will live here someday. It is the true epitomy of the cultural and natural mosaic of the west coast.

After a quick stop in Seattle's Georgetown neighbourhood, I rounded out my trip by spending 4 days in Vancouver, visiting my best friend, Henry, before he departs on his sabbatical of self-discovery in India. As per usual, our conversations were what bonded us; we continue to philosophically challenge each other with our differing perspectives in life.

Going for a run in Stanley Park, Vancouver

Over the course of 3 weeks, my faithful Toyota Yaris took me 6,500 km around the western United States and back on just $420 of gas. But I also gained kilometres of experience and wisdom.

This trip reaffirmed my desire for the purest form of travel - staying in hostels or with Couchsurfers to get the local perspective, and walking or biking around a city to get a feel for its character. While nature stunned me and culture impressed me, what defined the trip were the inspiring people I met and the amazing conversations I had.

While driving is nice, it's always nicer getting around a new city by bike!
Especially bike friendly cities like San Francisco, Eugene, Portland and Vancouver.

The one big difference in this trip with my Europe travels was that I drove the whole time. While having that freedom was really nice, there is something about taking buses and trains that I missed. Something about having that large expanse of time to fill how you like - by watching the landscape roll by, reading, or writing in a journal. Oh, and also not having to deal with traffic in big cities!

My recent experience has also helped to redraw the North American borders in my mind. Sorry Toronto: in North America, west is best.

Mt Hood reminds Portland of how powerful and timeless nature is

Because while oceans calm us, mountains alter us - they ground us, humble us, make us forget about life's insignificant problems and remember how simple and happy it can be; they can make us bow down with respect and love for nature in all its beauty.

Flickr link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/11monthsandrew/sets/72157636708306985/

On The Road Again, Part 1 - 127 Hours in Utah

With 10 months of backpacking still freshly imprinted on my memory, my vacation meter seemed filled up, if not still bubbling over the top. I was perfectly content to continue reestablishing roots in Calgary.

This doesn't explain why I suddenly embarked on a 3 week road trip, looping down the western United States and up to Vancouver, my current location. The explanation is not in the brain but in the heart: my heart is fueled by adrenaline, beats to the rhythm of new footsteps, pumps with spontaneity and fills the arteries with a vigor for life and new experiences.

Quick pit stop in Butte, Montana - discovered she's a beaut 

A few opportunities came together, and so on the last Friday of September I found myself driving out of town, south for the border. Past the prairies of Alberta and Montana I sped, eventually into darkness. After car sleeping, I woke up to pretty rolling hills smiling down at me, renewing my vigor. I drove on through Montana's better half, past Idaho's lava rocks, and braved Salt Lake City's rush hour traffic.

Three and a half men - in a condo in Moab, Utah

Finally, after 18 hours on the long road, I arrived in Moab, Utah, joining three guys each around 60 years old, already asleep in our rented townhouse, preparing for the upcoming physically demanding week.

Utah is simply one of the most beautiful places in the world. Its rock formations are like nothing I have ever seen. The morning after our first sleep we tackled the Negro Bill Trail which took us to the Morning Glory Natural Bridge, then later on hiked up another trail to see the Corona Arch.

Morning Glory Natural Bridge - tough to see, but it actually
stands on its own, separate from the large wall behind it

Corona Arch - tallest of all the arches in Utah

On Day 2 we checked out one of the slot canyons, made famous by the movie 127 Hours, Wild Horse Canyon. Later on, we dropped in on the goblins (though more mushroom-like in my opinion) of Goblin Valley State Park.

In the slot canyon, wading through knee high muddy water

Goblin Valley State Park

On Day 3 we decided to tackle Mt. Peale, the second highest summit in Utah, nearly 13,000 ft, offering us an escape from the low heat into chilling alpine winds and breathtaking views of fall colours and vast expanses of desert red rock in the distance.

12,700 ft above sea level, it's a long way down from Mt. Peale

On Day 4 we awoke to an impotent US government and locked gates at our most anticipated attractions - Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. Undeterred, we found a wonderful alternative - one of the most impressive and imposing rock formations I'd ever seen, Fisher Towers.

Fisher Towers - jutting slivers of rock that are truly unbelievable

Looking straight up, we saw rock climbers taking on one of the many steep tower's faces

On Day 5 we went to Dead Horse Point State Park, with views down to the valley floor, breathtaking, and into the distance, endless.

The view of the famous bend in the Colorado River, and a big pointy rock

It's a good day to be alive

Moab is the self proclaimed mountain biking mecca of the world. After 5 days of amazing hiking, I decided to take on the famous Slickrock Trail.

Taking a break from a grueling 3.5 hour teeth-grinding mountain biking trail

Some mountain biking enthusiasts rumbling down the steep hills of Slickrock

Despite the national parks being closed as a result of the greatest blunder of democracy, and being stuck in a house with 3 old guys, I was still able to experience some breathtaking places unrestricted by quasi-martial law. Over 6 days, I hiked around 60 km, gained nearly 2 km of elevation and got my tail kicked mountain biking. I left Moab drained but feeling fantastic.

And on the drive out of Utah, I managed to dip my feet into the Great Salt Lake, then take my car off the highway onto the salt flats, which stretch into the jagged horizon.

Just off the interstate, salt flats seem to go on forever and ever. And ever

The west coast is up next, and it's time to trade in the comforts of a townhouse for my old school ways of hostels and Couchsurfing. The road will take me from the dry heat of magnificent red rocky deserts into wet and wondrous blue coastlines, snow capped grand vistas of volcanoes and vibrant cities teeming with down-to-earth people in the hip west.

Stay tuned for Part 2.

The rest of my Utah photos can be seen here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11monthsandrew/sets/72157636637070714/