Staring out of my window, the thin silence of the upper reaches of the vast atmosphere was broken only by the white noise of the plane's turbines. The clouds below resembled the landscape of the ocean itself, but a frozen one, with its rolling waves of ice undulating between the orange glow of the rising sun and purple-blue accents of shadow.
Nearly 5 months after arriving in the hot exotic land of India, I left a different person. I had
a multitude of different experiences here and have no regrets.
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| Humans derive its natural humility from the mountains - Kanchenjunga, 3rd highest in the world |
Wandering India was a trial of my body
and mind, as well as a pilgrimage of my soul. And I found out I wasn't alone on
my journey. The majority of foreigners I met were also in it for the long haul, living out their 6 month visas (or longer), extending their lives in one
of the cheapest countries in the world, rupee by rupee, while seeing exotic
cultures and places.
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| Untalent show at the amazing volunteering community Sadhana Forest |
Many of the foreigners I met were, like myself, on a meaningful
journey beyond the bucket list. They were spiritual, or anarchist,
or rebels from society. Whatever they were, something was missing in their lives back
home, and they were trying to find it in India.
Whatever I was looking for, I was trying
to find it in the wild heart of India, lived in the streets. Walking down a
street in India was like experiencing a dream world, expanding one's perceptions of reality. Animals
like cows, dogs and monkeys roam the streets with autonomy, like they were
humans. Humans urinate, spit and push like they were animals. And here the past
refuses to let go of the people, and cars and mopeds can be seen racing past old
fashioned foot, pedal and animal powered carts and trolleys bulging with goods.
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| "Namaste, can I get a chai, please. With milk? Absolutely" |
Humanity of all shapes, sizes, and
backgrounds, dressed in dazzling colours or in stark modernity, can be seen
carving out their own space on the busy sidewalks. They can be seen eating, shaving, playing cricket in any available space, working the fields, bathing in rivers, praying
in temples, or, quite simply, sitting in one spot doing nothing. The quirks and quarks of Indian life can inspire laughter and smiles, while the heart
rending but incredible will to survive can be witnessed everywhere in the
poverty and neglect of the poor.
Somehow, despite the density of all this activity without order, life keeps ticking and traffic keeps on flowing like blood
through healthy, if slightly clogged, arteries of Indian society.
Whatever I was looking for in India, I was trying
to find it through humble living, imitating the locals where possible. This
meant bathing with cold bucket water, squatting down on dirty toilets, packing into crowded buses and sleeping on hard mattresses in
stinky and damp guesthouses.
I must admit I enjoyed taking the sleeper
trains (though I never sat in the body-crushing general class). There is something about
being in moving vehicles that soothes me like a baby. And the trains in India
are like living organisms themselves, moving cities, consuming and wasting as
it moves along its restricted track. A constant flow of touts walk the aisles throughout
the day, selling everything that can possibly be sold on a train from food and
drinks, to clothes, electronics, staplers, adjustable screwdrivers and
children’s toys.
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| The main aisle of the sleeper train where the flow of people never stops |
The daily challenges of India, according to the fellow
travelers whom I met, are part of the price paid in earning one’s
stripes as tough and hardened backpackers. The only aspect in which I spoiled
myself in India was with food. I gorged on virtually everything I laid my eyes
on, encouraged by my infinite metabolism, yet still spending less than $5/day.
I will definitely miss the curries, samosas and momos, as well as sweets such
as jelobi, gulab jamun and halwa.
Whatever I was looking for, 5 months was
enough to endure the journey. India really beat me up - the big cities wore me down with their unceasing sensory attack - the noise, pollution and lack of
silence. And the people wore me down with their curious staring, guessing games
of where I am from (Japan or Korea), asking for pictures with me, and attempts
to swindle me.
India also really jaded me. I think I
came in with the popular vision of India as a land of zen and
enlightenment. However, over my time here I learned that, despite the existence of hundreds of languages and ethnicities, there is just as much ignorance and discrimination here as
anywhere else in the world. Learning this made me more proud of my home
country, which is culturally diverse and tolerant.
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| The Prime Minister's rules of behaviour for Indians - in a language only the foreigners understand |
The experiences and obstacles encountered in India were stepping stones to achieving a greater self. In this I have completed a major chapter in my life, yet another big learning and growing experience.
While my search continues for who I am, traveling India has helped to slightly narrow down my choices. I can say with certainty that my time volunteering at Sadhana Forest was the highlight of my trip and one of the best months of my life. It inspired me in many ways, including thinking about the global impact of my dietary choices. My experience here has instilled a further desire for finding communities around the world that are living in harmony with its ecology through permaculture as a way of life.
I also discovered about myself that I
cannot travel endlessly. Travelling is a means to an end, not an end in itself.
The life of a traveler is pretty much the
complete opposite of having a job and living in one place. It's all spontaneity
and no comfort, especially in India. And while it's nice for awhile, over time
it wears on you, physically and mentally. It also becomes unfulfilling, except
to those whose ambitions lie solely in travelling. On more than one occasion I
felt restless and wanted to do something productive and positive for society, which is why volunteering was so nourishing for my soul.
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| Teaching English for a few days in a village in rural India |
I deeply cherished my time in India. Its natural beauty and otherworldly charm are unrivalled. The chaos, pollution, poverty, and lack of hygiene show that, more than anything, India is human, not perfect. And what it lacks in perfection it makes up for in the astonishing and genuin way in which its people live, and the real things in life that money can’t buy, such as love and hospitality.
I will no doubt come back to this
magical land someday. In 5 months I have barely scratched the surface of India.
Learn. Grow. Inspire.
Photos of my final 2 weeks in India! Flickr link
Travel Statistics
Travel period: 145 days (30 in Nepal)
Days of paid accommodation: 46 days
Days of rain: approximately 10
Maximum elevation: 4210 m (Annapurna Base Camp)
Days of rain: approximately 10
Maximum elevation: 4210 m (Annapurna Base Camp)
Favourite experience: Sadhana Forest
Favourite city: Varanasi
Least favourite city: Delhi
Least favourite city: Delhi
Favourite meal: Shiva special thali, Pushkar; 150 rupees ($3 CAD)
Illnesses: one fever (due to lack of rest, not food)
Bottled waters purchased: one (on the 52-hr train)
Major expenditures (flights, travel insurance, Visas, etc.): $1,500
Day-to-day expenditures: $1,800 ($380/month, $12.50/day)
Total expenditures: $3,300
Cheapest guesthouse/hostel: 100 rupees ($2 CAD)
Train distance: 5,300 km
Train time and average speed: 110 hrs, 48 km/h
Longest train ride: 52 hours (Delhi > Bangalore)
Cost (sleeper class): ~800 rupees ($16 CAD)
Bus distance: 4200 km
Bus time and average speed: 150 hrs, 28 km/h
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