History Before My Eyes - Machu Picchu

After trekking almost 90 km over 5 days with a huge pack on the epic Salkantay Trek (click for previous blog and pics), I was finally exactly where I wanted to be - camping underneath the Machu Picchu - one of the most magnificent places in the world, the pinnacle of human archaeology set in unparalleled natural beauty.

Salkantay Trek - 2 days before Machu Picchu, and I can already see it!

Camping under the Machu Picchu

My legs were quite fatigued after logging massive kilometres from not only the Salkantay Trek, but also the grueling Alpamayo Trek that preceded it. But despite this, they were also stronger than ever from all that exercise. And now that I was without my backpack, I felt fast and free as a bird!

Hanga joined me by vehicle transportation, since she had fallen ill and couldn't do the Salkantay Trek with me. We got a very early start for Machu Picchu, leaving camp before 5 am! I was off and racing up the mountain with extra boost from my hiking poles.

We reached Machu Picchu just after 6 am, the opening time, joining a huge throng of excited tourists. It was still really cloudy and foggy out, like one of those Chinese style murals - really pretty, but we couldn't see anything in front of us! Still, it was really early and we were confident the fog would eventually burn up with the morning sun.

However, the fog persisted. And persisted... and then it started to rain. How frustrating... this was the only cloudy and rainy morning I experienced after 4 weeks of travelling in Peru - and it was on Machu Picchu day!

6 am - besides occasional glimpses, the fog and rain obscured the Machu Picchu all morning...

Our rain gear wasn't great, so we took refuge under a straw shelter, which soon got packed by other disappointed tourists. All I could do was stare angry and helplessly out from under the straw roof at the depressing rain.

Minutes turned to hours, and frustration snowballed inside me. Soon I was experiencing the worst first world problems of my life - I have been waiting to see Machu Picchu for what felt like all my life, and when the day finally came, I couldn't see a thing!

By 10 am, the rain was still falling and we still had seen nothing. And Hanga and I had an appointment we couldn't miss - we pre-booked access to climb Huayna Picchu Mountain. We felt we had nothing left to lose, so we forged out into the rain to the access gate for the mountain.

Fuelled by the frustration of 4 hours of hiding from the rain, I climbed furiously up the very steep mountain, passing by tired tourists. I summited in under an hour, and met what could be an amazing view, but was obscured by clouds.

11 am - at the summit of Huayna Picchu! But there's still nothing to see...

The fog is finally beginning to lift. We hold our breaths...

Suddenly though a patch of cloud lifted here, revealing a distant valley below. We decided to wait it out a bit. Slowly, patch by patch of the fog lifted, and the view came together slowly like a puzzle revealing itself. Hope began stirring within my loins...

Only a few fog patches are now obscuring Machu Picchu!

The fog finally completely lifted - all is revealed!

At long last, nearly 5 aching hours after we got here, Machu Picchu finally revealed itself to us, and it was truly an amazing sight to see - a one of a kind place on earth!

Watch my time lapse from this spot - click here

There are truly no words to describe Machu Picchu. Despite being very touristy and relatively expensive (~$85 CAD) for the budget of a long term backpacker, it's one of those places everybody should see in their lifetime regardless of who they are and where they come from. I felt touched to have witnessed such a miracle on earth and gratitude for finally having this experience I've sought for years.

I also felt dramatic relief - this trip had already been quite the soap opera for Hanga and I, and the first half of the Machu Picchu visit was pure frustration and impatience, a reminder of the bad luck that seemed to shadow us - until the fog finally lifted. If it hadn't been for that, I might have left MP angry and disappointed.

Besides the ruins, I was completely and thoroughly humbled by the grandeur of the natural setting of Machu Picchu, and the will of the Inca people to build their civilization in such an isolated, difficult spot. Alas, they never finished building Machu Picchu, and had to abandon it for a reason I believe experts have yet to determine. This fact makes it all the more spectacular.

Please watch my insightful Barefoot Video Blog! - click here

It was difficult to have to leave Machu Picchu. I could have sat above its magical ruins and admired it all day. I at least had time to record my second videoblog!

But it was time to move on... my next adventure was waiting in mystifying and raw Bolivia!

Salkantay Trek - Redemption Trail to Machu Picchu

After getting seriously humbled by the Alpamayo Trek, aborting the trek halfway through, Hanga and I were taking our upcoming trek very seriously.

And there was no avoiding it - we booked Machu Picchu (MP) a month ago, and the Salkantay Trek ends at MP.

I spent quite a bit of time and energy gathering information and preparing my gear for the trek. Anticipation was running high, as well as confidence that we can pull through this time.

Unfortunately Hanga came down with the flu a few days before the trek. At this point I was too anxious to start, and Hanga understood. She lent me her tent, and I took off for Salkantay on my own.

From my hostel in Cusco, I found a bus to the village Mollepata. By some good fortune, from there a shared taxi took me to a camp further up the road for a local's price, giving me a significant head start for Day 1.

Morning of Day 1 - ascent from the village Mollepata

I slept sporadically, overcome by anxiety and anticipation. The next morning I woke to a vivid sunrise, and I was ready to go!

Because of Salkantay being a shorter trek than Alpamayo, the hope of more amenities on the way, and more frugal packing, my pack, despite being around 18 kg, was much lighter and easier to carry.

I got up at sun rise just before 5 am and was packed and flying out of the gate in an hour. Due to the head start of my campsite, I made it to my Day 1 destination, Soraypampa, by just 10 am! I couldn't believe it.

My first glimpse of snow capped mountains, just 3 hours into the trek!

I was so early, I went for a side trek to the amazing Lake Humantay, joining many one day bus tour groups.

Lake Humantay!

I packed enough food with me for my trek, but decided to purchase a hearty lunch in Soraypampa, then huffed it to a campsite further up the mountain to get a headstart for tomorrow, the toughest day of the trek.

Morning of Day 2 I was off bright and early, chasing the peak of dazzling Mt. Salkantay.

Click here for my time lapse of me putting up my tent under this mountain!

3 hours or so up from my campsite - up close and personal with Mt. Salkantay!

Mt. Salkantay at 4,600 m was a revered mountain by the Inca

The Salkantay Trek so far was all it's hyped up to be. But unlike Alpamayo, where I was too tired to enjoy the sights in front of me, I took my time to soak in Mt. Salkantay up close and personal!

After ascending to the high point of Salkantay Pass it was all downhill from there - and I mean all downhill! I spent the next 5 hours literally running down the mountain until my legs scorched with pain. By the end of the day I descended 2400 m!

Regardless, I felt great about being ahead of schedule, and decided to keep pushing my pace to hit my Day 4 campsite by Day 3. You'll see why...

Descending 2400 m from mountains to jungle

A beautiful sunrise, morning of Day 3

By Day 3, I was down from mountain cool and into jungle heat. I forged on with the sun on my face and sweat on my brow.

I had encountered many guided trekking groups along the way, but I also criss crossed an unguided and unique pair - a Frenchman and a young Argentinian. We ended up hiking together for the rest of the day and were able to complete the steep final ascent to our stunning campsite one day ahead of schedule.

Day 3 walking in the jungle with a Frenchman and an Argentinian

Cooling down in the river

Pumping water from the stream with my MSR Micro Works filter

Morning of Day 4 - a breathtaking view with Machu Picchu in the distance!

Click here for another awesome time lapse of me packing up my tent!

Day 4 involved an easy descent and hike along a smooth road into Santa Teresa for a rest day with time to regenerate at the Cocalmayo Hot Springs!

At this point of the trek, I was already satisfied. It was the complete opposite experience from the Alpamayo, which I now associate with pain and suffering... It was redemption.

After hiking 90 km in 4 days, I rewarded my muscles with a soak in the Cocalmayo Hot Springs!

On the Alpamayo, we consistently fell short of expectations; on the Salkantay I was blowing expectations off the mountains. And I even realized I could have packed lighter - the trek was more developed than I had researched, and there was camping and food along much of the trail.

The Salkantay Trek was so beautiful, it's difficult to put into words. But the best part, the crowning jewel of the trek - Machu Picchu - was still to come (blog coming out on this very soon)!

All my best photos are posted here on my Flickr link!

PS. I will be writing a serious blog for trekkers considering the Salkantay Trek.