After getting seriously humbled by the Alpamayo Trek, aborting the trek halfway through, Hanga and I were taking our upcoming trek very seriously.
And there was no avoiding it - we booked Machu Picchu (MP) a month ago, and the Salkantay Trek ends at MP.
I spent quite a bit of time and energy gathering information and preparing my gear for the trek. Anticipation was running high, as well as confidence that we can pull through this time.
Unfortunately Hanga came down with the flu a few days before the trek. At this point I was too anxious to start, and Hanga understood. She lent me her tent, and I took off for Salkantay on my own.
From my hostel in Cusco, I found a bus to the village Mollepata. By some good fortune, from there a shared taxi took me to a camp further up the road for a local's price, giving me a significant head start for Day 1.
I slept sporadically, overcome by anxiety and anticipation. The next morning I woke to a vivid sunrise, and I was ready to go!
Because of Salkantay being a shorter trek than Alpamayo, the hope of more amenities on the way, and more frugal packing, my pack, despite being around 18 kg, was much lighter and easier to carry.
I got up at sun rise just before 5 am and was packed and flying out of the gate in an hour. Due to the head start of my campsite, I made it to my Day 1 destination, Soraypampa, by just 10 am! I couldn't believe it.
I was so early, I went for a side trek to the amazing Lake Humantay, joining many one day bus tour groups.
I packed enough food with me for my trek, but decided to purchase a hearty lunch in Soraypampa, then huffed it to a campsite further up the mountain to get a headstart for tomorrow, the toughest day of the trek.
Morning of Day 2 I was off bright and early, chasing the peak of dazzling Mt. Salkantay.
The Salkantay Trek so far was all it's hyped up to be. But unlike Alpamayo, where I was too tired to enjoy the sights in front of me, I took my time to soak in Mt. Salkantay up close and personal!
After ascending to the high point of Salkantay Pass it was all downhill from there - and I mean all downhill! I spent the next 5 hours literally running down the mountain until my legs scorched with pain. By the end of the day I descended 2400 m!
Regardless, I felt great about being ahead of schedule, and decided to keep pushing my pace to hit my Day 4 campsite by Day 3. You'll see why...
By Day 3, I was down from mountain cool and into jungle heat. I forged on with the sun on my face and sweat on my brow.
I had encountered many guided trekking groups along the way, but I also criss crossed an unguided and unique pair - a Frenchman and a young Argentinian. We ended up hiking together for the rest of the day and were able to complete the steep final ascent to our stunning campsite one day ahead of schedule.
Day 4 involved an easy descent and hike along a smooth road into Santa Teresa for a rest day with time to regenerate at the Cocalmayo Hot Springs!
At this point of the trek, I was already satisfied. It was the complete opposite experience from the Alpamayo, which I now associate with pain and suffering... It was redemption.
On the Alpamayo, we consistently fell short of expectations; on the Salkantay I was blowing expectations off the mountains. And I even realized I could have packed lighter - the trek was more developed than I had researched, and there was camping and food along much of the trail.
The Salkantay Trek was so beautiful, it's difficult to put into words. But the best part, the crowning jewel of the trek - Machu Picchu - was still to come (blog coming out on this very soon)!
All my best photos are posted here on my Flickr link!
PS. I will be writing a serious blog for trekkers considering the Salkantay Trek.
And there was no avoiding it - we booked Machu Picchu (MP) a month ago, and the Salkantay Trek ends at MP.
I spent quite a bit of time and energy gathering information and preparing my gear for the trek. Anticipation was running high, as well as confidence that we can pull through this time.
Unfortunately Hanga came down with the flu a few days before the trek. At this point I was too anxious to start, and Hanga understood. She lent me her tent, and I took off for Salkantay on my own.
From my hostel in Cusco, I found a bus to the village Mollepata. By some good fortune, from there a shared taxi took me to a camp further up the road for a local's price, giving me a significant head start for Day 1.
 |
| Morning of Day 1 - ascent from the village Mollepata |
I slept sporadically, overcome by anxiety and anticipation. The next morning I woke to a vivid sunrise, and I was ready to go!
Because of Salkantay being a shorter trek than Alpamayo, the hope of more amenities on the way, and more frugal packing, my pack, despite being around 18 kg, was much lighter and easier to carry.
I got up at sun rise just before 5 am and was packed and flying out of the gate in an hour. Due to the head start of my campsite, I made it to my Day 1 destination, Soraypampa, by just 10 am! I couldn't believe it.
 |
| My first glimpse of snow capped mountains, just 3 hours into the trek! |
 |
| Lake Humantay! |
I packed enough food with me for my trek, but decided to purchase a hearty lunch in Soraypampa, then huffed it to a campsite further up the mountain to get a headstart for tomorrow, the toughest day of the trek.
Morning of Day 2 I was off bright and early, chasing the peak of dazzling Mt. Salkantay.
 |
| Click here for my time lapse of me putting up my tent under this mountain! |
 |
| 3 hours or so up from my campsite - up close and personal with Mt. Salkantay! |
 |
| Mt. Salkantay at 4,600 m was a revered mountain by the Inca |
After ascending to the high point of Salkantay Pass it was all downhill from there - and I mean all downhill! I spent the next 5 hours literally running down the mountain until my legs scorched with pain. By the end of the day I descended 2400 m!
Regardless, I felt great about being ahead of schedule, and decided to keep pushing my pace to hit my Day 4 campsite by Day 3. You'll see why...
 |
| Descending 2400 m from mountains to jungle |
 |
| A beautiful sunrise, morning of Day 3 |
By Day 3, I was down from mountain cool and into jungle heat. I forged on with the sun on my face and sweat on my brow.
I had encountered many guided trekking groups along the way, but I also criss crossed an unguided and unique pair - a Frenchman and a young Argentinian. We ended up hiking together for the rest of the day and were able to complete the steep final ascent to our stunning campsite one day ahead of schedule.
 |
| Day 3 walking in the jungle with a Frenchman and an Argentinian |
 |
| Cooling down in the river |
 |
| Pumping water from the stream with my MSR Micro Works filter |
 |
| Morning of Day 4 - a breathtaking view with Machu Picchu in the distance! |
 |
| Click here for another awesome time lapse of me packing up my tent! |
Day 4 involved an easy descent and hike along a smooth road into Santa Teresa for a rest day with time to regenerate at the Cocalmayo Hot Springs!
At this point of the trek, I was already satisfied. It was the complete opposite experience from the Alpamayo, which I now associate with pain and suffering... It was redemption.
 |
| After hiking 90 km in 4 days, I rewarded my muscles with a soak in the Cocalmayo Hot Springs! |
On the Alpamayo, we consistently fell short of expectations; on the Salkantay I was blowing expectations off the mountains. And I even realized I could have packed lighter - the trek was more developed than I had researched, and there was camping and food along much of the trail.
The Salkantay Trek was so beautiful, it's difficult to put into words. But the best part, the crowning jewel of the trek - Machu Picchu - was still to come (blog coming out on this very soon)!
All my best photos are posted here on my Flickr link!
PS. I will be writing a serious blog for trekkers considering the Salkantay Trek.
No comments:
Post a Comment